Suckling pig and Cesnica

The faithful of several Orthodox churches in Zug celebrate Christmas on 7 January. An insight into the festive preparations.

The suckling pigs slowly turn on the spit. There is a smell of smoke, the air is cold and it snows constantly. Powered by a self-built engine, the 20-kilogram piglet is barbecued over the embers for a good four hours – depending on the weather and temperature. It could take a little longer this year, says Sinisa Knezevic, president of the Serbian Cultural Club, as the dream of a white Christmas has come true for the Serbian Orthodox faithful this year.

Serbian Orthodox believers celebrate Christmas Eve on 6 January, and Christmas on the following day, two weeks later than the Roman Catholic Christmas. This is because they still calculate the dates  according to the Julian calendar. Sinida Knezevic explains: "The grilling of a suckling pig on Christmas Eve is a Serbian Orthodox tradition. And we are continuing this custom here in Switzerland, just like in our home country,."

So he's not the only one roasting a pig this morning - at a grill location in Baar, some of his friends are doing the same nearby. Protected by a tent or parasols, the piglet rotates over the heat, while the men listen to music from home and start celebrating with homemade plum gin. Nothing of the feast is eaten on 6 January, however, because it’s the last day of Lent, on which the faithful eat no animal products, with the exception of fish.

Celebration in the Church in Zug is no longer possible
"Christmas Eve is a family event through and through," says Knezevic. This year even more than in others. In the past, for example, a divine service took place at midnight in the parish of St. Michael in Zug, which has been cancelled this year due to corona. That’s a pity, but it doesn’t detract from the joy. You meet with the close relatives In the evening, you say some prayers: the association president explains the traditional customs while taking a look at the meat, which is slowly turning brown. He stabs the hindquarters with a knife so that they will not burst. He comments on the grilling process before explaining the customs practised on Christmas Day:

"Everyone has their own strategy. I learned to roast pigs from my parents and grandparents. »

A tradition that he also wants to pass on to his children.

Photo 1:Keeping up cultural traditions is important for Sinisa Knezevic.
Photo 2:The suckling pig is traditionally prepared on 6 January 6, which is Christmas Eve for the followers of the Serbian Orthodox Church,– and a drop of the good stuff together is also not forgotten.
Photo: Matthias Jurt (Baar, 6 January 2021)

On Christmas morning, the family dedicates themselves to the ‘Cesnica’, the Christmas bread, in which a gold coin is hidden. In a similar way to the Three Kings Cake, each of the family breaks off a piece. "The one who finds the gold coin will have a particularly happy and healthy year." The same applies to the first visitor on Christmas Day, who will be given gifts and will be especially blessed with luck. "Many presents are given at Christmas. Including to the poor in our Serbian homeland," he adds. And, of course, the carefully prepared suckling pig is eaten – along with other traditional dishes.

Traditions are especially cultivated in the family circle

The festival is not quite the same as in the homeland, Knezevic finds. Nor can all customs be carried out in the same way. On Christmas Eve, for example, a branch that still bears leaves would usually be cut down – which is not really feasible in Switzerland.

"There’s a lot of interest for all the other traditions, but especially for the grilling of the suckling pig. Passers-by stop and ask about it."

It’s important to Sinisa Knezevic that the customs should be maintained. That's why he passes them on. Customs and tradition are cultivated all year round in the Serbian Cultural Club, and, in particular, the children are taught the traditional Serbian dance. Although the club currently has around 100 members, Knezevic emphasises that the club is no longer as lively as it used to be. Like other clubs, the Serbian Cultural Club is struggling with the fact that people don’t want to make a binding commitment. And the Corona Year was incisive for the life of the club.

Nevertheless: the tradition is still alive in the family circle. Especially on holidays like Christmas.